09 August 2011

Bewatched by whales

There are many places one can watch whales in the wild – from the shoreline, lookout or lighthouse, but the only true way to witness these majestic wonders of the ocean is to let them watch you, waving your arms furiously from aboard a charter boat at Hervey Bay. Curious by nature, the humpbacks that migrate south down the coast of Queensland each year from July to November, put on a spectacular show, well aware of their appreciative audience.


Blake and I took Friday off work and moseyed up to Hervey Bay, taking in lunch on the Sunshine Coast along the way. Hervey Bay isn't that far away from Brisbane, really. A generous 3.5 hours, but the journey does feel like a long haul unless you find something to amuse yourself – like spotting familiar childhood landmarks and cursing the ridiculous highway speed zones (unfortunately there's no Gympie bypass yet) and so we made it in casual fashion and didn't mind the drive.

Early Saturday morning we boarded our whale watching catamaran and set course for the humpbacks' hang out. It's a beautiful sail out, along the coast of Fraser Island – the world's largest sand island spanning a distance equal to the Gold Coast to the Sunshine Coast. We even spotted a dingo on the beach, drinking from a freshwater stream.

At first I thought this was going to be a day of whale waiting rather than watching, as an hour and a half had passed and still not a marine mammal in sight. I convinced myself to remain patient – everyone knows what it's like when you're working with kids and animals! The anticipation of expecting something to launch out of the calm, blue waters is suspenseful yet frustrating. Will this be the one time there are no whales? After taking up multiple positions on the many decks of the cruise boat, my patience paid off and a pod of active humpbacks was located nearby and we floated over to check them out. What came next was just short of exhilarating, as the gentle waves of the protected bay were broken with an almighty breach of an adult male humpback. The whales had seen us and were keen to get a closer look, swimming over to the boat, within 2 metres of the vessel. Hearing stories from people who have been whale watching before, I was in awe of the performance these creatures were giving us, having never imagined we'd be able to get so close to these amazing beasts! The stand out feature of the whales in Hervey Bay is that they rest, play and engage with their watchers unlike anywhere else in the world.

We spent the afternoon at the Hervey Bay Whale Festival – a celebration to mark the opening of the whale season. It was a wonderful community event with stalls, rides, showbags and loads of activities such as candle making, tie dying, knot tying and painting – perfect for families with little ones.



Once the sun had set, the Esplanade was lined with people on either side for the Lantern Parade. We stood at a local pub as bagpipe and drum bands, dancers and floats decorated by community organsiations and local businesses marched by, all getting into the spirit of the pending flurry of tourists about to hit their town. Then it was off to Enzo's by the beach for canapes and wine whilst watching the fireworks.

NEED TO KNOW

SNUG – Alexander Lakeside B&B
Nestled in a quiet suburban location, a short walk from the beach and nearby cafes and shops is Alexander Lakeside B&B, our resting place for the weekend. We were warmly greeted by owner Sharon Lagan who introduced us to the local area and the local turtles and birdlife that reside in the freshwater lake at the rear of the property. The room was comfortable and inviting, self contained and peaceful – the perfect relaxation spot for a weekend packed full of action.

FEED – Coast
Newly opened restaurant Coast serves a traditional English-style home cooked menu with seaside influences and fresh ideas. We shared the Bourbon-glazed beef ribs main &ndash the meat just falling off the bone and melting in the mouth. The atmosphere is gorgeous, service exemplary and food divine. My favourite was the grilled prawns topped with cannellini beans, pancetta and watercress. A must if you go to Hervey Bay!

LOVE – Tasman Venture whale tours
What's so special about whale watching in Hervey Bay is the attention to detail the operators give to the experience. The on-board commentary by the crew of Tasman Venture was excellent. They provided great information on the whales, their history in the area and we even listened to some whalesong. Plus, a free DVD to take home – everyone loves a parting gift!



LEAVE
Whilst we encountered very few negatives during our weekend, neither Blake or I were thrilled with Pavilion Restaurant. The menu appealed to us greatly, and two bottles of pinot gris we drank kept us in good spirit, but both our mains (lamb cutlets and pork belly) were over-cooked.

Verdict: Love to go back again later in the season to see the larger whales and mothers with calves pass through and also explore more of the Fraser Coast, including Fraser and Lady Elliot islands.

Alexander Lakeside B&B. 29 Lido Parade, Urangan.
Tasman Venture.
Coast Restaurant & Bar. 469 Esplanade, Hervey Bay.

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